Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
